Back at Duncan’s

My two-month internship ended with Doug Adams and I’m now going back to Duncan MacMaster’s for one more month long internship. This will be my last internship while I am in school.

My first day back at Duncan’s was relaxing and short. It was just before Thanksgiving break so we spent the time catching up and discussing the upcoming projects. I told him all the things I had done and learned at Doug’s. Then Duncan showed me the projects he will be doing and the things I will get to help him with. One the biggest project I will be helping with is a console table made out of cherry for a local costumer who wants it before Christmas. Another project is a small Japanese style altar table for another local customer.

The first project Duncan gave me when I came in the next week was to work on the Japanese style alter table. Duncan had already started and mostly finished the little table. The top is a beautiful, old, odd shaped piece of wood the clients had found years ago. They wanted Duncan to make a Japanese alter table out of it for them. Duncan designed a square base to hold the beautiful piece of wood. He cut the top two inches or so off the base so an inner box could be attached allowing the top to slide on and off if needed.

The first step was to drill pilot holes in the top of the base where it would eventually be screwed onto the tabletop. I started by measuring and marking where the holes should go and set up a fence on the drill press so the piece would stay in place while drilling. Using a countersink drill bit I drilled the holes.


Drilled pilot holes


Inner box for alter table table base

Next I measured and cut the pieces for the inner box. Before gluing them up I double checked to make sure they all fit properly inside the top of the base. Then I glued the pieces together and one again made sure they fit properly into the base. After that I glued the inner box to the top of the base, clamped them, and set it aside to dry. The box that I glued inside the top of the base will slip into the bottom of the base and eventually be held on with wooden pegs.


Inner box glued and clamped into Japanese alter table base

Meanwhile, Duncan had started the cherry console table. He had the top finished and the pieces for the legs, aprons, and drawer fronts cut. He had also partially cut the mortises in the legs using the table saw. This assured that the mortises would be perfectly straight and clean. But, due to the saw blade being round there was a little wood near the bottom of the mortise that didn’t get cut. My next assigned job was to finish the mortises and get them fully cleaned out. First I used the drill press to clean out as much as possible. This was fairly quick and easy because I only needed to make a few holes before I reached the point where the table saw had already cut. One I got to that point I could pop out the inner pieces of wood.


Mortises cut on table saw and drilled on drill press

Next, Duncan handed me an assortment of Japanese chisels, each one allowing me to more easily work on different aspects of the mortise. I got the mortises cleaned out but detail work would need to be done once the tenons were finished and matched to the proper mortise to ensure as close to a perfect fit as possible.


Mortises cleaned out with Japanese chisels

Duncan got the tenons cut to proper size on the table saw and handed them to me to cut a miter joint on the end of each. I made certain to cut them all the correct way.

Once the mortises were finished Duncan was able to taper the legs and fit the tenons on. Duncan had to hand plane a few areas on the legs to make the apron fit flush against them.

Next we sanded the legs. Duncan had me hand sand the top of the legs in such a way to keep the angle sharp where the legs taper off; if a pad sander were used on that area that angle would have rounded.

The next step I helped Duncan with was gluing the mortise and tenons together. Duncan had cut grooves out of a lip on then underside of the tabletop where the legs would fit. With the tabletop flipped upside down Duncan put all the pieces in their place and we did a dry fit making sure everything fit perfectly.

I still find glue ups to be stressful. First of all when you put the glue on you have to go as fast as possible. I am still very slow at this part for some reason. I had glued only a few surfaces on two mortises in the same time it took Duncan to glue all the tenons and the other two mortises. And secondly, although we had everything fitting perfectly for the dry run once the glue was on and the clock was ticking the pieces suddenly didn’t want to fit together. One of the legs wouldn’t go on all the way so Duncan whacked it several times with a hammer. This produced one of the loudest sounds I had heard up close; my ears were ringing. This wasn’t working so Duncan grabbed a large clamp and cranked it until the leg finally popped into place. Then we took smaller clamps and quickly popped all the joints together putting clamps on and taking them off and readjusting them until all the pieces finally popped together. Once everything fit we took all the clamps off and reclamped it in such a way to pull the mortise joints in tight onto the tenons.


Table base glued up and clamped


The “boxes” I made to go in-between the drawers

Once the joints had dried we unclamped it and I moved onto my next task; I was to make boxes that would fill in the space around the drawers. Duncan had already cut the long pieces so I measured and marked the short pieces that were still needed and cut them to size. I did this slowly cutting a little off at a time to make sure all the pieces came out the same size. Then I measured and marked where the screws should go on the correct boards then I drilled the pilot holes. Next I glued and clamped the pieces making sure to make them flush with each other. Then using the same pilot holes I had already drilled into some of the boards I now used them to drill into the other boards they are now attached to. Then I screwed the pieces together and unclamped them. Then I checked that they fit properly on the underside of the table.

It’s been a really good first week back. It’s been interesting and fascinating to see the way Duncan designs and builds furniture. He thinks about all the aspects of the function of the piece of furniture and incorporates supports where needed. He makes furniture to last and he puts his very best into it.


What I Bring to the Table – Part 4 – Bottoms Up

This was my last week with Doug; I had many projects to finish up so the pressure was on. The thing I most wanted to finish was my table. I had my mortise and tenon joints finished and the base for my table all glued up. What I still needed to finish my tabletop and attach everything together.

I started by sanding the top and bottom of my table. It took a really long time to get off all the extra glue because I put so much on while gluing the boards for my top together. Once both sides were smooth I set it aside to work on getting my base ready to support it.


Making corner braces

Doug had me make corner braces for extra support. I did this by cutting a board into triangles. I cut each one separately and slowly until it would approximately fit. Then I cut the tip off the triangles making a 90-degree angle. This should then fit snugly into the corner and around the leg, but I didn’t do the best job of making the 90-degree angles and some have big gaps between the leg and the brace. It doesn’t matter that much and won’t effect the strength. Each brace would get screwed onto the table base in three places. I measured and marked where the screws would go, one in the middle and two on each side.


Drilled holes into the corner braces to prevent splitting while screwing them on

Then I drilled pilot holes in both the braces and the base. Maple is really dense and the grain can’t move out of the way for a screw so if you don’t drill a pilot hole it will split and crack. Next Doug helped me screw them together. At first I didn’t have very good control on how fast I drilled the screws in but after being scolded several times by Doug that I was going way to fast near the end I finally figured out how to press the trigger lightly and go slow.


Base with corner braces

I only had a few steps left before my base was all done so to bring it one step closer I put two or three coats of finish on it throughout the course of a day.

In between the coats of finish I worked on my tabletop. On the table saw I cut it to it’s proper dimension. Then I wanted to chamfer the bottom edge. The first step was to take a sliding t-bevel and measure the angle I wanted and then draw it on the tabletop. Doug had me look at to make sure it was what I wanted. It took a few tries positioning it but I finally got it looking just the way I wanted.

Then I set up the table saw to cut it; I positioned the blade at an angle using the sliding t-bevel to make it the exact angle I wanted. Then I set the blade height. Doug wanted to do the first one to show me how and to make sure everything would go okay. After he ran it through he set it to the side to for me to look at and make sure I liked it; I did. Then he left me to cut the rest. In order to cut the right angle on the right edge I needed to have the bottom of the tabletop up. Doug had cut it properly but after looking it I got disoriented and forgot to flip it back over. I cut two sides before I realized. This was a total bummer. We looked at it and brainstormed all the options I had to salvage it. One option was to flip it over and have the bottom become the top and just recut the edge Doug had cut. I had spent so much time picking and laying out the boards just right to make the top look good that I really didn’t like this option; the bottom looked hideous and there was no way I was going to look at it for forever. The option I decided to go with was to square off the two edges I messed up and start all over with them. This meant my tabletop would be smaller and the overhang would be less. It wouldn’t look as good as my original dimensions but it would still fit on and look okay. So I began to recut and this time around I was a lot more conscious. Doug thought this process would only take 20 to 30 minutes to finish but instead it took all day. I felt a little bummed but Doug and his wife, Sandy, gave me words of encouragement to help me see it in a positive way. Sandy told me it was better this way because every mistake is a lesson I otherwise wouldn’t have lear ned. Doug told me my table won’t be as I designed it but when I bring it home I will fall in love with it and forget about my mistakes – I shouldn’t bring home any bad feelings just a lot of experience. They both told me exactly what I needed to hear.


Chamfered table top


Making grooves with a router for table top fasteners

When the finish on the base was completely dry Doug showed me how to make grooves with a router on the inside of the aprons that table top fasteners would fit in. One end of the fastener fits in the groove at the inside top of the apron and the other end gets screwed onto the tabletop. This pulls them together reducing its independent expansion and contraction. Doug made three grooves then I made three grooves.

Finally I was ready to do the final steps to finish the base. I sanded it smooth with a 400 grit sandpaper then buffed it with a special Duffy-like mix that Doug makes using some sort of abrasive powder and mineral oil. It essentially acts as really fine sandpaper while oiling it at the same time; this gives it a nice glossy sheen to it as well as making it so soft and smooth. I also did this to the top when it was dry too.


Screwing the table base to the top with table top fasteners

Now I had a finished base and a finished top and the very last step was to screw them together. I laid the top upside down on a table then put the base upside down on top of that. I lined it up as best as I could; I measured the distance between the legs and the edge of the top trying to get them as even. Then I grabbed the table top fasteners and put them in the grooves pulling them out just a tiny bit. Next I drilled the pilot holes making sure not to go through the other side, and then I finally put the screws in. Tada! It was finished.  It looked nice.


Finished table

I had a lot of ups and downs throughout this process and I made plenty of mistakes, but as Sandy stated earlier, they were all important lessons. From beginning to end I learned so much. I managed to finish my table on my last day, and although some parts didn’t go smoothly my table worked out. When I bring my table home I am not only bringing my table I am bringing home lessons, experience, knowledge, perseverance, hard work, the product of my creativity and the work of my own hands. Overall, I am proud of myself and the hard work I put into this. I am grateful to Doug for all his time, knowledge, patience, help, and allowing me into his space; I couldn’t have done it without that.

What I Bring to the Table – Part 3 – Don’t Give Me Any Lip

My tabletop is all glued up and my mortises are almost done. Next it was time to make the tenons on the aprons that would go all the way around the table under the top. The tenoned aprons add extra strength and support to the table making it more rigid and sturdy. I had already squared and cut the boards, and the dimensions for the tenons had been pre defined in order to mark the mortises.


Using tenoning jig to make tenons on my table aprons

I used the table saw with a tenoning jig (the same device I used to make the slip feather joints for the wooden trays). Doug helped me set the blade to the right height and the fence to the right distance from the blade. I clamped the boards in one at a time and ran each side of each end through the saw slowly.


Little flappy pieces on each side of the tenon

This left little flappy pieces on each side of the tenon. To cut those off I set the blade just below the tenon and used a miter gauge to push the board through (I was cross cutting the wood with the width of the board greater than the length making this a dangerous maneuver without using the miter gauge to hold the board in place).


Using a miter gauge to cut flaps off tenon

We made one tenon then used it to test the miters to make sure they would fit. All but one fit. One would need to be made bigger due to the mortise being a bit on the wide side.

Also using the miter gauge I cut little indents into each side of the tenons and then used the band saw to cut from the end to the indents making the tenons smaller all around than the apron.

Once all the tenons were made it was time to clean out the mortises all the way. I decided which tenons would go in what mortises then marked them with letters to keep track of them. One at a time I chiseled out the excess wood on the inside of the mortises checking often how the matching tenon fit.


Cutting miter joints on the ends of my tenons

Doug had me make the tenons such that they would come together in a miter joint inside the mortise. This would give an extra gluing surface making the whole joint stronger. The tenons were longer than the depth of the mortises so once I had them all fitting so the tenon would hit the bottom of the mortise it was time to cut the miters. I did this one small cut at a time. I starting long then cut the miters down slowly checking them in the mortise each time until the shoulder of the apron fit flush against the leg.

One of my mortis joints was a little tight and after testing the tenon I tried to pull them apart. I rocked them back and forth and pulled and pulled but they wouldn’t budge. So with all of my weight over the mortise I held it down with one hand and with the other hand I pulled on the tenon with all my strength. Then WHAM, the tenon yanked free and slammed right into my face. For a split second I witnessed my body’s automatic fight or flight response take hold. Adrenaline kicked in and my muscles tensed; I was ready to attack whatever hurt me. Finally I came to my senses and realized my pain was self inflicted and there was no external threat. I was then able to calm down and asses the damage… my lip was swollen and sore, it had been cut on the inside as well as bleeding from a gash above my upper lip. I checked my teeth; they were still there and intact. Doug had gone inside his house a little while ago so I grabbed a tissue and headed in to tell him. His wife got me some ice and some gel to put on it. I left a little early that day to go home and nurse my wound. I was just really grateful that I had hit myself in the face with a piece of wood instead of misplacing my hand near a saw. The damage was minimal and would heal. This was just a lesson on how it is so important to pay attention to what you’re doing, where you’re body is, what the dangers are, and how to make it safe.

Swollen Lip

My swollen and split lip

Though my lip was still sore and swollen I went to the shop the next day and finished my mortise and tenons. And when they were all done I got to have a fulfilling moment when doing a dry fit of my table base. Doug helped me do this to make sure everything went together tightly with no gaps and aligned properly. I got to step back and look at the product of all my hard work so far. I still have a lot more to do but my table was taking form; it was becoming real and tangible.


Using a ruler and a clamp to make an arch in my aprons

I wanted to give the bottoms of my aprons and arch, so after making sure everything went together well Doug showed me a brilliant, easy way to make a perfect arch. He took a long ruler and put it in a clamp set to a shorter length than the ruler. This made a perfect, even arch which I was able to trace onto each apron. Then I took the aprons over to the band saw the cut as accurately as possible without touching the line I drew. Then I used the orbital sander to smooth the arches out and sand all the surfaces of the legs and the aprons.

Finally everything for the base was finished and ready to glue up. I did one last dry fit which I struggled with a bit on my own. To me everything seemed to fit well so I got Doug to help me glue it all up. This was stressful! I guess it didn’t fit as well as I thought because every joint we put together Doug commented on how it wasn’t fitting well. Then we checked that everything was square and measured the distance between the legs. The distance between the top of the legs and the bottom was off, so for some we clamped them closer and for others we stuck pieces of wood in between to push them apart. When we were finished Doug said, “That was not an easy glue up. It wasn’t the hardest I’ve done but it wasn’t easy.” Next time I will make sure to check my dry fit better so I can fix any problems before putting on the glue when there is no longer time to fix anything.


My table base all glued up and clamped

There it was, my base all glued up. What an accomplishment! It wasn’t perfect and my table wasn’t finished but I am now so much closer. I had setbacks, frustrations, and an injury but I worked through them and will continue to do so. I now have only one more week left, let’s see if I can finish everything.

What I Bring to the Table – Part 2 – One by One

Now things start to get exciting with my table. It is time to make the mortise and tenons.

The first step was to mark out my mortises. I had to stay home one afternoon so Doug sent this home with me for homework. This time I was smart enough to bring measuring instruments home with me so I didn’t have the same problem as last time. He showed me how to do the first one and walked me through the measurements and how to accurately mark my mortise as he drew on one of the legs. When he was finished he erased all he had drawn so I could start fresh.


Marking my mortises

When I got home I struggled for a moment with my brain to remember the dimensions Doug had so clearly laid out.  Slowly it came back. I started by picking out the worst looking ends (the ends with the most chip out) to be the top, and of those, the two worst sides of each board to be where my mortises would go; that way the most awful looking parts of the legs wouldn’t be seen.  The first one took the longest but once I had my first one marked out the others went quickly.  When I brought them in the next day, Doug said they weren’t perfect but they were good enough.

Next I drew a line down the center of my marked mortises that I would use as a guide to drill out as much as I could. Doug set up the drill press and warned me that the bit he put on wasn’t the best and may not work. He was right. The bit would clog right away and drilling would have taken forever so he put on a new bit. This one wasn’t ideal but at least it would work, however, it was pretty sloppy. No matter how hard I held the board down it would move and and the drill would migrate outside my mortise lines. I felt better that it happened for Doug too. I wasn’t able to drill out as much as I would have liked and that meant I would have to chisel out more by hand later.


Drilling my mortises


Chiseling my mortises

Once the drilling was finished it was time to hand chisel out the rest. This was tiring work. I remember making the mortises for the chest I made at Duncan’s and the pine was so easy to cut through, maple is so hard! I used a wooden mallet, mortising chisels made out of really hard steel for the heavy-duty stuff and Japanese chisels for smaller less hardcore work. I whacked and I whacked and I scraped and I scraped and one by one I got my mortises to an approximate finished stage; I would do the finishing touches on them once I had the tenons made.


Mostly finished mortises

I inspected my work then turned to Doug and said, “I feel like this is the ugliest thing I have ever made.” To which he responded, “Welcome to working with maple.” We then had a discussion on how I felt I was doing and why. I haven’t really done this before so I didn’t really know what I was doing and every time I dug my chisel in I just hoped for the best. Doug kept reassuring me that they were fine mortises but because of that lack of experience and not knowing what I was doing I felt like it was just luck. It’s true that they didn’t look that great and a major reason why is because maple is hard to work with, the grain was convoluted, and the drilling didn’t go that well. But like I said, my mortises turned out all right. I wasn’t really putting myself down; I knew I was a beginner and that the more I do the more comfortable, confident, and knowledgeable I will become. If I keep going I won’t be able to pin it on luck, I’ll have experience and understanding to back me up.

I set my mortise joints aside and went to work on the table top for a break. My first task was to figure out which board I wanted where. This board here, that board there, flip them over, rearrange them, put them back. I tried every possible combination a couple of times before deciding on one of my earliest combinations – it always seems to work like that. Then I marked the boards so I could easily line them up later when gluing or if they got moved around.


Ready to glue up the table top

Then it was time to do a dry fit to make sure everything would fit tight and flush. I lined my boards up and clamped them tight together. Good thing for the dry run, a couple of the edges weren’t completely flat and I had to run them through the jointer. Then I did another dry fit, this time they were perfect. Doug had something he needed to get done so he said if I was feeling brave I could attempt to do the glue up alone. I accepted the challenge and gathered the needed supplies. I had the clamps set up, the boards positioned, and the glue in hand, I was ready. On your marks, get set, GO! As fast as I could I squeezed and slathered glue on each edge, laid the boards flat, and matched them up. Then I put the final clamp on top and cranked them tight. The glue was slippery and the boards kept moving out of place. I would move them back into place and crank the clamps a little tighter only to have them move again. I just kept realigning them and cranking a little tighter until they were finally together. I used far more glue than I needed and it oozed and dripped from the joints. I grabbed a piece of paper and attempted to scrape all the excess off. Pretty soon I was covered in glue too. After I wiped my hands clean Doug came over to look at how I did. He congratulated me saying it was no easy feat to do glue up job alone.


Tabletop glued and clamped

Slowly and steadily I’m working my way towards a complete table, though I still have quite a ways to go. My days are also split between working on my table and helping Doug. All in all things are going well and I’m excited!

What I Bring to the Table – Part 1 – Well Begun is Half Done

I finally started my table. Doug had me start by taking my scale drawing home and making an actual size drawing of it on a large piece of paper. When I got home I realized I didn’t have any proper equipment for drawing so I improvised. I had a sewing measuring tape, a 12in ruler and a piece of paper with a 90-degree angle. It took longer and was a little more difficult to do than if I had the proper equipment but I got the job done. The point of that exercise was to see how the proportions looked in the actual size. Doug and I both agreed that the legs looked long and would either need to be shortened or have a cross bar or shelf added.

The next step was to pick out the type of wood I wanted to make my table out of. Doug showed me the different kinds of wood he had available that I could use and I chose maple.

Doug then grabbed me a few pieces of paper and had me make an exact cut list using the lengths and widths from my design. With that I made an actual cut list by adding on a little extra to the lengths and widths. Then I sorted through his large stash of maple to pick out boards I could use based on that cut list.


Cut List

After I had all the boards picked out Doug taught me how to calculate the approximate board footage. One board foot is equal to 1ft x 1ft x 1in. The process of calculating it took me far to long to do. It was pretty embarrassing how ridiculously slow and poor my math skills were. Doug kept trying to make me feel better by saying it’s just not something I’ve done before and the more I do it the faster I’ll get but really, this was some pretty basic math and I had a total brain fart. All he had me do was take the length and width of the boards and figure out approximately how many square feet each one was, I was even able to round to make it easier. Then multiply that by the thickness of the board. My brain just didn’t want to work that day and it took me 30 minutes to figure it all out.

Doug and I discussed the importance of being able to calculate the approximate board footage of something. He says he uses on occasion to figure out how much wood to order or how much wood will cost. It may not be used on a daily basis but it is definitely worthwhile to know. There are phone apps that can calculate it but it’s important to know how to do it without relying on technology. There are many methods for calculating this but Doug’s way is a rough estimate that will get you in the ballpark quickly… if you get used to it and don’t have a brain fart like I did.

Once all that was done it was time to s4s (surface 4 sides). This means getting all four sides smooth, straight, and square.  This was accomplished by using a jointer, a planer, a table saw, and a chop saw.

Doug told me not to put the boards for the table legs through the planer because the grain was all over the place but I forgot and ran it through accidentally. This was a big mistake. The ends of the boards chipped off in huge chunks. Another mistake I made was that I had already cut them to length; I should have waited and that way I would have given myself room for mistakes like this. The only way to fix it was to cut the ends off. This actually worked out for the better in the long run because we did think they were long and looked funny. By cutting them it made the proportions better. But next time I know better… I hope.

I made another mistake that day. For my tabletop I was going to need to cut one long board into four separate pieces that would then be glued together to make one big 18in x 18in piece. I wanted all four pieces to be the same size. I measured the width of the board and calculated how much I would need to cut off of each. Doug told me to only cut two to size and leave the other two for the outside pieces so I could put clamps on then to glue up without worrying about denting them, then cut it later. But again I forgot. I cut three before Doug realized and scolded me. Again, it was not a catastrophic mistake; it just meant I would have to put an extra piece of wood on one side to protect my tabletop from the clamps. It just adds an extra step to a time sensitive task.

I know there’s a saying, “Well begun is half done”. In this case, I didn’t have all that great of a beginning, but hopefully it will pick up and get better. Keep reading to find out.

Always a Beginner

One month down one to go. This last week was the start of the second month of my internship with Doug. So far I’ve had a blast and learned a ton. Although, I have to say, being a novice is really hard at times. I have made so many mistakes, I move at the pace of a snail, I ask too many questions, and I feel totally clueless and unsure about everything most of the time. There are some days where everything I do I mess up. I just have to continue to remind myself that this is where I am starting from and it takes time to get good at anything. It’s nice to remind myself that all I can do is take life one day at a time and one step at a time which is much more conducive to enjoying the journey and staying optimistic and hopeful. This is true for all areas of my life.


Adding inner boarders to trivets

Last week I had a really fun time helping Doug a lot with his projects. I made outer boarders for table runners putting dado grooves into them – it went a lot better this time. Then I put the boarders on the table runners. I also got to put inner boarders on trivets. The trivets were fun because I got to work a bit with the spalted wood and it became more about design; I got to pick out the best parts of the spalted wood and match them up around the trivets. I also got to know the chop saw better and started to figure out where to place the blade to get a closer more accurate cut. Doug always suggests cutting it on the big side to start and pruning it down over a few cuts to be on the safe side. After a while I started to see where the sweet spot was where it would either by right on or just barely big and could hit it more often.


A stack of “canvases” (Trivets with outer and inner boarders) for Doug

Working so close to Doug on the same projects he’s working on has made me really in awe of him. He is so enthusiastic about his work and gets so excited over it, almost giddy. He is an artist right down to the core when it comes to the work he’s doing now. When you look at his work it’s so amazing and beautiful but you would never guess how much he puts into it. You can’t even begin to imagine unless you get to know him in his work setting. He wakes up really early and starts working, he’s a machine and works straight through with no break other than lunch, and he’s still working when I go home. I know he says he gets tired but you really could never tell.

Lately, Doug has been really pushing me to be more independent and to figure out more things on my own. This has led to a lot of mistakes. However, as nice as it is to do things perfect the first time, you really do learn a lot more from mistakes. People always say this and, as I’m discovering, it holds a lot of truth. It’s really hard on my immediate self-confidence and pride but in the long run it’s truly a blessing. Just by making one mistake I get to learn what not to do, how to fix my mistake, and how I can do it better the next time. That’s a pretty good ROI if you ask me.

Lot’s of ups and downs, lots of hard work, and lots of learning happening. I’m grateful for all that and looking forward to more.

“You can learn new things at any time in your life if you’re willing to be a beginner. If you actually learn to like being a beginner, the whole world opens up to you.” – Barbara Sher

From Start to Finish – Part 2

Over the past couple weeks I have been working on and off towards finishing the trays. A lot has been done since my part 1 post.

After we had all the sides cut to length and the miters made, the next step was to decide what type of handles the trays would have. Doug wanted some of his to have routed handles and some with cherry handles. I decided I would do the same.


Doug’s routed tray handles

We set up the router and Doug showed me how to make the handles. Instead of having my handles go only half way through the board I wanted them to go all the way through. Doug said that was usually done another way but since we had the router set up we could figure out how to make it happen with the router. Doug set up two boards on either side of the router spaced just wide enough for the tray side to fit. This would keep me safe and keep my board straight giving it a nice even cut. Doug tried it first to see how it would work. Then I did a few practice runs before starting on the real pieces. It worked!


Hand routing the inside of my handles

After that I used a handheld router to round the inside of my handles and then sanded them smooth.


Drilling holes to screw on the tray handles

Doug then designed the shape of the cherry handles and figured out their dimensions. With that information, I marked on the boards where to drill holes that would be used to screw the handles on. Then I used the drill press to drill the holes. I also used the drill press with a plug cutter bit to make plugs that would cover the screw and fill the hole.


Making wood plugs

Once the holes were finished it was time to put finish on the inside of the boards. The outside will get finished later. I really enjoyed this process. It was calming for me and all my attention was on what I was doing. I found that if I held the board up to the light while I as putting the finish on I could see the spots that I missed easily. This allowed me to get nice, even coats.

About halfway through putting on the second coat I went to move the can to a closer spot and it slipped right out of my hand. It landed upside down and half of what was in the can spilled out and rapidly spread into a good sized pool. I walked over to Doug with a very ashamed look and told him. He acted quickly. He grabbed some rags and sawdust. I wiped up as much as I could then Doug sprinkled sawdust around to soak up the rest. I wiped that up and we repeated the process. We got it cleaned up to the point that you could barely see where it spilled. I felt so bad and Doug told me a story to make me feel better of a time he spilled a gallon of finish. It made me feel a bit better but I took down the info of what kind of what type of finish it was and surprised him a few days later with a new can of finish.


Trays glued up using block and string method

When the finish was dry I finally got to glue the trays together. I did a few practice ones before making the three trays requested by Doug’s former customer. First I would put glue in dado joint then on the mitered edges then fit the pieces around the plywood panel making sure that the joints were tight and the inside of the corners lined up. Then I used a block and string method to hold the joints together and apply pressure while drying. I found that doing a dry run before gluing up avoided much difficulty. Every time I would skip the dry run and go right to gluing the pieces would never fit together and I would have to frantically try to manhandle (or should I say womanhandle) and hammer them together before the glue set. Once they were together I would lay the trays on a flat surface to make sure they didn’t rock at all.


Angled table saw blade

The next step was to make the cherry handles. Doug showed me where his cherry wood stash was located and we picked out the boards we would use. Then we ripped it on the table saw to get it the right width. Doug designed the handles to be tapered inward on all four sides. That could be accomplished for the long sides on the table saw. I never knew this but apparently the blade can be rotated in to cut at an angle. Doug explained how this maneuver could be unsafe and what I could do to stay safe. We started with the blade relatively upright and moved it in gradually until the amount of taper was just right.

After that, the outer edge of the board was rounded with a router. Then we moved to the chop saw to cut the remaining handles to the right length at a slight angle. To get a straight downward cut, because the board is tapered, Doug stacked a few pieces of veneer to prop up the low end.


Cherry handles cut to size


Doug’s finished cherry handles

Once the handles were cut to size it was time to sand them. I saw that Doug used the belt sander to sand off the sharp corners and round the side edges of the handles but must have missed what he did after that. I looked at the handles he had finished and went to the belt sander to finish the rest. I tried so hard to make mine look like his but I couldn’t. I tried and I tried but it just didn’t look as smooth and perfect as his. Finally I gave Doug a look of desperation and he came over with a kind of “did you really mess this up” expression on his face. I told him that I was using the belt sander and I just couldn’t get mine to look as good and smooth as his. He laughed and told me he got the handle to that point through a series of three stages. First he used to belt sander to get the basic shape then the orbital sander to smooth it out and round it further, and finally he hand sanded it a little to top it off. Ah ha! That’s how he got it so nice. I felt much more confident about my ability after that.

I quickly finished the rest of the handles on belt sander then moved on to the orbital sander. Doug told me it was a little awkward at first but he had gotten used to sanding rounded edges with the orbital sander so I gave it a try. It took a short bit to get used to but it wasn’t bad. My hand got tired pretty fast so I switched hands and kept going. Woodworking is helping me become ambidextrous; sometimes I need to use my non-dominant hand to do things and now it’s becoming more coordinated. However, it’s interesting that the technique I use is different for each hand. What works for one doesn’t work for the other, they each have a mind of their own (or a different brain hemisphere).I got the handles as close to done as I could with the orbital sander then set them aside to be hand sanded at a later time.


Doug showing me hot to make a slip feather joint

Next, Doug taught me how to make a slip feather joint. This is done by cutting a kerf into a miter joint and gluing a piece of wood into it. This adds extra strength to the joint. Guess which tool we used for this? Yep, the table saw; this is an amazing multipurpose tool. There is a special jig that a piece (in this case a tray) clamps into at a 45 degree angle. It fits into a track on the table saw so all a person needs to do it push it slowly forward and pull it back. I made two cuts on each corner; one near the top of the tray and one near the bottom of the tray. Then I glued the slip feathers that Doug made into the kerf cut.


Kerf cut for slip feathers


Making slip feather joints on the corners of the trays

When they were dry I used the band saw to cut the excess off. The goal is to get as close to the edge of the tray as possible without cutting into the tray. I tried my very best but my cuts were either far from the edge or I would accidentally cut into the tray. Neither was a big deal it just means I would need to sand more.

The last step I completed on the trays was to sand all the outside edges flat and smooth. Making sure the feathers were completely smooth and didn’t stick out.

I still haven’t finished the trays yet; there is just so much other stuff to do in the shop for Doug. I need to finish hand sanding the handles, put them on the trays, and put the finish on.

Stay tuned for more of my adventures in helping Doug, building a table, and finishing the trays.